Climbing in Hohlwegen

Didi in action Rather unknown due to more famous climbing areas in the near, the excellent rock of the valley between Lofer and Saalfelden in the federal country of Salzburg has seen only few visitors so far. This is a pitty, because it provides climbing possibilities for the extreme climber as well as for beginners. And the valley itself is really enchanting... Fly on the wall

What follows is a copy of the guide book "Topoführer Hohlwegen", published in 1990 by Claus Candido, Hannes Schett and Mike Stöger. (it is no longer available!) It contains about 200 climbs. Due to the fact that in the meantime several years have passed it is clear that there are many new routes now that are not contained in this booklet; anyway it should provide a good starting point for you if you have never been climbing in the valley between Lofer and Saalfelden before.

I've started to update some of the topo-pages, since Mike's original guide is quite outdated. Sure, there could be nicer drawings, more detailed route descriptions,... maybe I will be able to offer a more complete, "open-source" guide book on Weißbachs climbing spots in the future. In some cases I also felt obliged to correct, respectively update the route's grade - there may be discussions about that, but I think in general climbers will agree with my personal ratings.

How to arrive:

Look up the villages Lofer and Saalfelden in the federal country of Salzburg in a map. In between them, following the road labelled "B 311", you will find the small, picturesque village Weißbach (offering other attractions like the "Seisenbergklamm" or the "Lamprechtshöhle". Remember that on your rest-days!). This is where you start.

Overview of the crags:

(available also as PDF)

Weißbacher Klettergarten Das Puff Kleines Verdon I Kleines Verdon II Barberenland Felsmechanik, Platte unter dem Dach und Tschitas Felsen Alter Klettergarten Militärklettergarten &
   Trenkerwandl Weißbach Das Puff Kleines Verdon I Kleines Verdon II Barbarenland Felsmechanik Alter Klettergarten Militärklettergarten Trenkerwandl Platte unter dem Dach Tschitas Felsen Unteres Wunderland Unteres Wunderland Die 2. Dimension Die 2. Dimension Overview Weißbach

A - B Klettergarten Weißbach (Quite easy slabs for beginners. In the lower part, called "Das Puff", you can find some short overhangs.)
C Das kleine Verdon 1.Teil (Slightly overhanging rock with holes and tiny ledges in the wood. Good place for summertime.)
Here is the printable PDF version of the topo.
D Das kleine Verdon 2.Teil (Rather short climbs beside a narrow street. Very nice if you only have little time.)
E Barbarenland (Also slightly overhanging crag with tiny ledges. Here you will find some of the hardest testpieces around. Absolutely recommendable!
When parking your car please take care that the landowner can still enter his property! Consider parking your car at the Gasthof Frohnwies, walk 5 minutes to the Barbarenland and order a beer at the Gasthof when you have finished climbing.)
Here is the printable PDF version of the topo.
F - H Platte unter dem Dach, Tschitas Felsen und Felsmechanik (Felsmechanik got 13 pitches!)
I Alter Klettergarten 1.Teil (The crag where sport climbing started in Hohlwegen - especially thanks to Mike Stöger. The grades as given in the topo are extremely hard. So don't be frustrated when routes turn out to be more difficult than the topo states, but simply add one degree to the official difficulty.)

Alter Klettergarten 2.Teil
J - K Militärklettergarten (Another recommendable place for beginners (follow the colored lines). Reaches up to 100 metres. Access prohibited when the austrian army is training there - which happens quite rarely.)
L Unteres Wunderland (One of Weißbach's great places - a must-see! Recently re-discovered by local climbers it has been equipped with new bolts and new routes. The only drawback: stays wet for a long time after rainfalls.)
Here is the printable PDF version of the topo.
M Die 2. Dimension Great place, great routes, great rock! A real climber's treasure chest!

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